| By
Dean Johnson
Sun Correspondent |
Friday
September 20th, 2002 |
A good way to introduce the
uninitiated to the concept behind Skewers on Route 38
in Tewksbury would be to think of a Boston Market franchise
that has a wood-fired grill and serves a variety of
Mediterranean specialites.
And that's meant in a good way.
Skewers is an intriguing concept in fast food dining.
It's serve
yourself, take-a-number eating, replete with a steam
table where customers can select their own side dishes.
But it's also lamb and beef skewers, spinach pie, slow-cooked
ribs,
pita rolls, and more.
The dining room can seat nearly 40 and features basic
tables with a tiled floor, dominant hunter green and
black tones, some Mediterranean flourishes to the decor,
and...this nearly sent my head spinning...an enormous
bird of paradise plant near the main entrance. Huh?
But once you move beyond the novelty of the concept
and its culture
clashes, there is the simple matter of the food, and
it's a good one.
Both soups we sampled ($2.50/$3.50) were above average
and great winter starters. The egg lemon was on par
with what you'll find in most Greek restaurants, and
the mushroom tortellini with meatballs was even better,
a hearty and filling soup with flavor to spare.
The spinach pie special was a generous portion made
with fresh
spinach, ample enough for sampling by 2-3 diners. The
Buffalo wings ($4.50) were prepared with a thick breading
and a potent spicy sauce.
Skewered meats are prepared in a house marinade based
mostly on olive oil, lemon, and herbs and served with
onion slices, peppers, and mushrooms.
Most are served with a sturdy house salad and a choice
of homemade potatoes or rice. There are concessions
to the fast food concept here and there. We were never
asked how we wanted out meats done, and salad comes
with their dressing, an herbed oil and vinegar variation.
Still, the beef skewer included seven tender, juicy,
good-sized
pieces done medium/medium rare with a big batch of delightful
home made french fries.
The lamb skewer ($10.50) was more of the same, with
inviting home made mashed potatoes. Lamb can be strong,
this wasn't.
The Boston cream pie ($1.95) was fresh and spongy, though
I prefer a cream filling to the vanilla custard version
served. Tiramisu ($2.75) was a couple of notches above
what you'd expect from a fast food outlet...and that's
also a perfect way to sum up Skewers in general.
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