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Skewer's Wood Grill
Food
Service
Atmosphere
By Dean Johnson
Sun Correspondent
Friday September 20th, 2002

A good way to introduce the uninitiated to the concept behind Skewers on Route 38 in Tewksbury would be to think of a Boston Market franchise that has a wood-fired grill and serves a variety of Mediterranean specialites.
And that's meant in a good way.
Skewers is an intriguing concept in fast food dining. It's serve
yourself, take-a-number eating, replete with a steam table where customers can select their own side dishes.
But it's also lamb and beef skewers, spinach pie, slow-cooked ribs,
pita rolls, and more.
The dining room can seat nearly 40 and features basic tables with a tiled floor, dominant hunter green and black tones, some Mediterranean flourishes to the decor, and...this nearly sent my head spinning...an enormous bird of paradise plant near the main entrance. Huh?
But once you move beyond the novelty of the concept and its culture
clashes, there is the simple matter of the food, and it's a good one.
Both soups we sampled ($2.50/$3.50) were above average and great winter starters. The egg lemon was on par with what you'll find in most Greek restaurants, and the mushroom tortellini with meatballs was even better, a hearty and filling soup with flavor to spare.
The spinach pie special was a generous portion made with fresh
spinach, ample enough for sampling by 2-3 diners. The Buffalo wings ($4.50) were prepared with a thick breading and a potent spicy sauce.
Skewered meats are prepared in a house marinade based mostly on olive oil, lemon, and herbs and served with onion slices, peppers, and mushrooms.
Most are served with a sturdy house salad and a choice of homemade potatoes or rice. There are concessions to the fast food concept here and there. We were never asked how we wanted out meats done, and salad comes
with their dressing, an herbed oil and vinegar variation.
Still, the beef skewer included seven tender, juicy, good-sized
pieces done medium/medium rare with a big batch of delightful home made french fries.
The lamb skewer ($10.50) was more of the same, with inviting home made mashed potatoes. Lamb can be strong, this wasn't.
The Boston cream pie ($1.95) was fresh and spongy, though I prefer a cream filling to the vanilla custard version served. Tiramisu ($2.75) was a couple of notches above what you'd expect from a fast food outlet...and that's also a perfect way to sum up Skewers in general.

 

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